AW2003
The collection comprises two principal themes. The ‘yellowing’ associated with the aging of fabrics over time provides a dominant colour pallet. This effect is obtained through the choice of new and the over dying of existing fabrics.
Garments with ‘undone’ detailing:
The Collars, lapels collars and fronts of coats, jackets and waistcoats are not stitched flat as usual. Their deconstructed fronts and collars naturally open up. Buttons are cut off leaving the trace of the thread that formerly held the button in place. The addition of snap fasteners inside the garment allows for the insides of lapels, collars and the lining to be visible. For knit pieces, sweaters and dresses mainly, the edges, cuffs, waists and the hems are left open. Bleaching often enhances this effect.
The exterior fabric of lined dresses, skirts and a few trousers has been partially raw-cut at the waist. The exterior of the skirt or trouser is only attached to the waistband on one side of the body. The hip of the wearer thus holds the fabric of the garment’s exterior in place leaving the contrasted yellow lining visible. The skirt of a black chiffon evening dress has been undone and displaced further down its lining.
The waistband and fly’s of men’s and boy’s classic trousers and jeans are cut away and become a collar and neckline once inserted into long sleeve T-Shirts. Belts may still be worn through the belt hoops becoming in this instance a necklace. This process is also applied to ladies velvet skirts allowing them to be worn as caul neck dresses once their interior lining has been detached and allowed fall to form their skirt.
‘Too Short’ trousers are elongated for wear once their hems have been undone. This technique was applied to classic masculine trousers as well as evening trousers.
Vintage children’s crochet knit shawls in light colours are assembled as elongated cardigans.
Vintage garment sleeves assembled as garments:
Jackets, waistcoats and sleeveless shirts as well as ‘sleeve collar’s and scarves are all made from either men’s jacket or shirtsleeves.
The interfacing and shoulder padding of the jackets from which the sleeves have been removed have also been moulded on a tailor’s dummy to become pre-formed contrasted patchwork tops. The body of the jackets have also been transformed into skirts. The addition of lining fabric allows their armholes to become pockets.
Clear PVC, in aged yellow or smoked colours, is a recurring material for accessories and detailing throughout the collection. Belts, triple, double or thin and buttons. They always match the garment with which they are worn. Knit garments in lamb’s wool have large buttons in the same colours of PVC.
Other accessories include miniature Perspex clothes pegs as well as old scissors and bunches of keys embedded in yellowed Perspex that may be used as pendants or key fobs.
The Martin Margiela ‘Tabi’ boot has two transformations this season. A knee high model as well as another cut to the ankle both with the traditional round heel.
